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Day: January 26, 2021

Big Bend, January 16-17th

Big Bend, January 16-17th

While Del Rio seemed distinctly joyless, Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park were distinctly joyful! Sweeping desert vistas greeted us with all of the romance we had imagined. Big Bend National Park campgrounds were full, but Big Bend Ranch State Park nearby had sites open and was also beautiful. We got to our campsite in the early afternoon, offering an opportunity to explore. A short but adventurous hike got us to the shore of the Rio Grande. We were amazed by the the change in the appearance of the river since Del Rio. The water was a beautiful tropical green and gurgled over rock formations to form gentle rapids. The sun shone high in the sky, providing unexpected warmth for the January day. Mexico lay feet before us, with panoramic views of mountains and protected lands mirroring the parks on the US side and preserving the rugged beauty on both sides of the border. Our campsite was secluded and offered post card views. A quick sweep of the blacklight at sunset assured us that the few scorpions near our tent were thankfully uninterested in us.

As night fell, the black velvet sky gave way to an infinite number of stars piercing through the inky blanket. Constellations became so apparent, even to our untrained eye, we could monitor the passage of the evening by their movement through the skies. It was hard to go to sleep knowing this spectacular gift from nature was unfolding. It was a lovely reminder of our place in the universe and how little our day-to-day concerns really impact us. The weight of the world slipped away with the Earth’s gentle rotation. 

We took advantage of some beautiful hikes the next day, packed up or campsite and bid a sad adieu to the BBRSP. The drive to El Paso was beautiful, but long. Sadly, duty called and we headed towards civilization to be set up in time for the workweek.

Del Rio, Texas, January 13-16th

Del Rio, Texas, January 13-16th

We stopped in Del Rio, Texas for a couple of work/school days on our way to Big Bend. This was our first experience in a Texas border town. A short description of Del Rio was summed up by a local restaurant named “The Armpit of Texas”.  Unfortunately, Del Rio’s affectionate nickname is appropriate. It was dusty, brown, and forgotten. Deferred maintenance was the community standard. Some highlights included the friendly people and the beautiful Amistad National Recreation Area just outside of town. There was also a clear creek running through a local park with an amphitheater. This was the only access to public swimming in this desert town that we could find, despite the city’s namesake, the Rio Grande, that runs right on by. There were stretches along the river border that were “well secured” by patrols and walls, while other areas of the narrow Rio Grande seemed allocated to RV party decks and more forgotten properties. Unless you are a property owner, the Rio Grande appears off limits. While not all of it is fenced off, it is as if the entire town participates in a unspoken agreement that it just does not exist.

We were hopeful for some great Tex-Mex food, at least. Hopefulness is just not part of Del Rio experience. Maybe if we had eaten at the above-mentioned restaurant…but it was closed due to COVID-19. We hope it re-opens; Del Rio could only benefit from a sense of humor.

One notable thing about Del Rio was that people were taking the COVID-19 mask wearing very seriously. While shopping at the H.E.B grocery store a couple of times, 100% of people wore masks.